PATERNO'S NOOK. This chamber inside the Paterno Cave is believed to be Gen. Pedro paterno's personal noo during the war years.

       The early morning frost was evident on the leaves of my plants as I yawned my way out the gate. I was hoping it would not be this cold (9 degrees celcius) where we are going today. Heard the nearby town of Atok are mourning their cabbages that wasted on frost. Ahh, coffee will heal the cold. This early and I got a message that the people meeting us are heading their way to welcome us. Wow, my mind was wandering on fresh-brewed coffee and “dukto” (sweet potatoes). Rubbing my hands together and blowing warmth on them I look forward to getting there.

       It was about 30 minutes and we passed by the Municipal Hall of Tublay. From there is another hour of slow, enjoyable viewing and riding thru the roads of Tuel to Barangay Ambongdolan. The way there is a single lane of continous back roads, trees and vegetations lining both sides. Air was cool and the sun was an early warming device. The familiar sensation of freedom caught up with me again. I have loved this place, same as I do other similar terrains.

       Reaching the Barangay Hall we were met and welcomed warmly, showed inside and shoved under my nose was the wafting smell of the brewed native “barako” coffee. 2 large trays of nicely laid rice cakes and a mountain of sweet potatoes. I could sit here all morning and not budge if I wanted to, but since the coffee and taters and cakes will soon travel with us, I relented to go.

       First stop was Paterno Cave, named in memory of Gen. Pedro Paterno who once made this cave his troop camp to hide from the invading foreign armies. It was a short decent to the eeny weeny tiny mouth where we had to crawl head first and slither on our stomachs one at a time to get inside. 10 feet on and I had to turn over feet first towards the hole to be “born” into the bigger chamber.  From this point on it was either crawl, bend, slither, or walk relaxed with nothing but gaping mouths to the sounds of wows and a lot of imaginative thinking as we passed by different rock or mineral formations. There’s the giant lizard to start with, the parrot, the crocodile head, the giant mushroom, the mineral curtains and a whole lot more to linger for and take photos of.

       Huffing and puffing back to the road after, we travelled the short distance to the waiting shed where a green-railed stairs led down to the river. Some of the barangay officials and the guides were there ahead to prepare the food and campsite. I was thinking to myself this was too much of a welcome, somehow feeling a bit guilty that I had it pre-arranged and the community took pains to make sure we are the most comfortable creatures here today. My guilt took comfort in the knowledge that we are a group with similar advocacies with these people and that the communication was the best way to bond with them. Very warm people with open smiles and a ready humor to dispel the exhaustion and the musky smell of sweaty bodies. Lunch along the crystal clear river was a blast. Grilled fish and pork bellies with generous servings of sautéed water cress. And the coffee, I did not forget.

       A little rest and poking the river beds for whatnots we trekked to the next cave. Bengaongao Cave was a rather spacious chamber. The name itself describes it. Bengaongao as explained connotes the “echoing sounds”, that in big hollowed out spaces like this one sound often bounces back and travels. In some parts are smaller passage ways leading to an opening or underground natural waterways. One particular end opening would lead to Ketong Falls. So spacious is Bengaongao that in one mezzanine floor called the Cathedral, the community would often hold masses during special occasions. Aptly so, at the back of the makeshift altar are stalagmites the locals named after Bible characters.  Theres the “Madonna and Child”, and a bit afar is “Joseph”. Same as in Paterno Cave they have the “Jerusalem” too. The cave walls are dotted with wondrous protrusions depicting an elephant, mini-terraces, a “vegetable section”, the “stairway to heaven” aptly named because of the white crystal stairs, small clear pools, egg-like formations (whether whole or done sunny-side up or scambled), teeth-like growths, all in shades of white, beige, browns, and grays.

       After the caves, the swimming down the lake of Ketong Falls was unbeatable. For those like me who don’t swim, we can always crawl and splash about. I did that and with glee.

       For the short travel distance from Baguio City is this haven. A treasure cove of mighty stalactites and stalagmites, of beautiful unknown secrets, stories and histories all embedded into the rocks and pumping with life in the secretive heart of Ambongdolan.